Despite the obvious lack of available information, the past few months
have been eventful. We’re in our fifth hotel now, the Rosewood Corniche,
having traveled from our home south of Chicago to White Plains, New
York; San Diego, California; Paris, France (for all of two hours); and
now Jeddah, Saudi Arabia.
We were originally supposed to relocate 15 June 2009. Rather, we were
originally supposed to relocated in November of 2010, but some
as-yet-unnamed individual (or groupthink) changed all that. We were
handed a new relocation date (again, 15 June) and told to prepare.
For those of you who have never traveled to Saudi Arabia, let me digress
for a moment to tell you a bit about the visa application process: it’s
extensive. Very extensive. “Medical exam so thorough the doctors have
never heard of the tests” extensive. A deceptively-single page covered
in “positive/negative” checkboxes that certify that you are either
worthy of entry or summarily fired. (I guess they usually do these
before they hire you, but someone thought better of it since “we were
going to be working in the US for over a year anyway.”) If the tests
themselves–and the passport photos, and the background check, and the
scholastic reports–were not complicated enough, we suffered mistakes.
Little mistakes, but many. Forgotten tests. Incorrect tests. Mislabeled
samples. Lost samples. Exploding samples. (I am quite glad that I was
not present for that one.) Complicating matters even more, Andi was
traveling the entire time. Round One in New York. Rounds Two and Three
in Wisconsin. Rounds Four and Five in Florida. All within the span of
two weeks. (At least the three times I had to go were all in the same
state.) These complications and over-complications set our relocation
date back by a month (or one month closer to our original date, however
you care to see it).
For the curious, Andi and I are now both certified–to the satisfaction
of the Saudi Arabian government–to be free of syphilis, malaria, HIV,
hepatitis, cholera, parasites, mental retardation, mental disorder,
paralysis, blindness, hearing disorder, speech disorder, and unborn
children. Good to know.
After an epic three-way phone call with a testing clinic, more mad
FedEx-overnighting than I’ve ever seen before, and a mysterious visit to
the Saudi embassy in DC, Andi and I were each the proud owner of an
entry visa for Saudi Arabia.
In the mean time, I had been working furiously to co-ordinate the sale
of my 1999 Pontiac Grand Am to a good friend in need of a vehicle. It
turns out it’s complicated to pay off a Wisconsin loan for an
Illinois-titled car while living in New York and shipping to California…
especially without a reliable mailing address. Still, just days after my
entry visa arrived, the shippers appeared and carried away my car,
leaving me to walk back to my hotel. As a born-and-bred midwesterner
from the heartland of car culture, stranded (as it were) far from what
my subconscious still considers home, that was a very odd feeling.
A eight-hour flight to Paris should be exciting. A little less so when
you only get to be in Paris for two hours. Even less so when you never
get to leave the airport… and when you’ve got another seven-hour flight
after that… and when you’re flying coach.
When we finally arrived at the Jeddah airport, we were pleasantly
surprised to find an entire KAUST greeting booth–with its now-familiar,
large, colorful, and beckoning logo–manned and ready to receive us. We
were ushered quickly through customs, and our bags were left unopened
after a quick run through an x-ray, putting to rest months of fears
about complications at the border. It took us thirty minutes to move
from the plane to the car. (As Andi later remarked, “I thought they were
driving us somewhere else for the actual customs check!”)
It might not surprise you to find out that Saudi Arabia is nothing like
the US, so you’ll be very surprised to find out that it is exactly like
the US… only hotter… and the men wear thobes and the women wear abayas…
and everything is in Arabic… and businesses shut down five times a day
for prayer… and there’s wild camels roaming the desert… ok, so maybe
it’s not exactly like the US, but I was shocked by how familiar it can
feel. One of the first things I saw (in the semi-conscious car ride from
the airport to the hotel) was an iPhone billboard for the 3GS. Then a
mall, in which I saw a Fudruckers. (That’s right, a Fudruckers.) Burger
King… Applebees… TGI Fridays… There’s a Pizza Hut down the road from our
hotel! (I’m starting to notice that I can’t think of much aside from the
restaurants, so perhaps I’ve only underestimated the affect that
familiar food can have.)
Oh, they have Wal-Mart, too. Only it’s not Wal-Mart, it’s HyperPanda,
which, as I’m sure you are aware, is an infinitely better name than
Wal-Mart. (Obviously, it follows that Saudi Arabia > the US.) Nothing
makes the human experience seem more universal than watching a Saudi man
stand awkwardly with his wife in the “feminine products” aisle.
Initial impressions at the KAUST campus were bad. My entire first day in
Thuwal was spent in and around our datacenter… a ghastly sight. We
entered the building through a hole in the wall, traversed the offices
without floors, to reach the machine room: Shaheen splayed open, Blue
Gene entrails spread callously across the floor. 85% humidity… heat…
dust… and that’s with all the hardware turned off. This room was not fit
to have a machine like Shaheen in it. (It still isn’t, really, though
it’s closer every day.)
The next day was better. My project manager led me through more-complete
areas of the campus: the vast tunnel that runs through the center of the
academic square… the seafront… the residences… (Actually, those were
depressing again, but we’re being positive now.) The more I saw, the
broader my perspective became. Now I was one of the wide-eyed dreamers
that provides no useful information to the comrades back home.
If I had one word to describe the campus it would be “behind.” With two
words I would say, “behind schedule.” With four, though, It’s “behind
schedule, but amazing.” Its proximity to the sea gives it both a
fantastic view and a cooler climate than Jeddah. (Even a warm breeze can
cool you down.) From a distance, I think the academic center is a bit
sterile (though still grand) but in and around the buildings you explore
passageways and walkways positioned to use the breeze while shielding
from the sun. The center is an intellectually satisfying interweave of
levels and walkways, all highlighted by palm-accented roads and water
affects.
The residential districts (including the student accommodations) are
similarly fantastic, if a bit repetitive. (It’s inevitable, I think,
when you build this many homes all at once.) From a plaza at the center
they are an amazing sight, and from there I began to get my first
inkling of the full scale of what was being constructed.
That is the one problem, though: it’s all still being constructed. The
site is large enough that you can get a perspective high enough that you
can see just how amazing it really is; but up close there are few real
roads, incomplete buildings, and an undeniable prevalence of
unlandscaped desert. It’s a massive construction in the desert, with a
few out-of-place grassy areas: not the miraculous oasis that it will one
day be.
Andi and I each have an Iqama (ee-gah-mah) now: a sort of permanent
residency permit, so they won’t kick us out of the country in thirty
days. Andi has found work, too, in the university relations department!
She’s doing exactly what she’s wanted to do, too: editing and writing,
and even investigating and interviewing a bit. (I’ll let her talk about
it, since she probably has much more interesting things to say about it
than I do. I’m crazy-excited for her, though!) We’re still in the
Rosewood Corniche, our stay in Jeddah having been extended until at
least 8 September, due to the current state of the campus. We feel a bit
stuck (again) but really, we can’t complain. We’re in this for the
adventure, and we’re certainly having it. There’s virtually no
information available (KAUST seems pathologically afraid of
communication); but despite an unfortunate tendency toward freneticism
(that I’m trying to calm) things get taken care of eventually. Just not
on my schedule.